Ballymaloe Cookery School

After 3 months at cooking school I’ll return home finding it hard to be anything besides sad. Today I am in Dublin and it is officially the last day of my 6-month European journey. I’m sitting in a funky cafe with only a sandwich, coffee, and my thoughts to keep me company. Immediately what I notice missing is Anna. With the calm music and peaceful ambiance I feel like I should turn my head to find her next to me. Knowing us, we’d talk about cheese and then move on to topics that could vary from what we want out of life to the ultimate hamburger topping. Afterwards we’d return to our cottage of 11 beautiful girls and find Nicola and Sophie dancing to One Direction (a pop boy band that according to Sophie “is as big as the Beatles.”). The music definitely wasn’t everyone’s cup of tea but seeing how happy it made Sophie was always a reason to put it on. Later I would run up to Anna and Caroline’s room for my daily cuddle session. Caroline would awkwardly stare at us and so the next obvious thing to do was attack her with endless hugs. She may not have enjoyed my forms of affection but always managed to laugh her way through the discomfort. Usually then the three of us would just talk, dance, and laugh with whomever else trickled in to the room. Eventually Fionn would come in and we’d chat over coffee about whatever weird topic suited us. Then he would disappear in his mysterious way and leave all of us confused with what exactly he was about to do.

Sadly back in the cafe I realized none of that was going to happen.  Anna would never come and Nicola, Sophie, and Caroline would not be gracing me with their smiles when I returned. Reality was hitting hard and it was taking every fiber of my being to resist the tears.  I couldn’t say when I would see them again; I couldn’t say when I’d see anyone again. Our course of 62 students consisted of some of the most wonderful individuals I have ever met. The dynamic was unique and all of us were in completely different parts of our lives. We were of completely different ages (ranging from 17 to mid 50’s) and of completely different backgrounds. What I didn’t know was that in reality, no matter how different we were, we really were all just the same. Most apparent was that we all loved food. We also all chose Ballymaloe not just to learn how to cook, but more importantly to learn the system of cooking. What was less obvious was that we were all trying to improve ourselves, find balance, and work towards happiness in this crazy game of life. I truly feel like I left Ballymaloe with 62 new friends and I hope they all know the impact they had on my time there.

To my great surprise I began to realize that it really was the people that highlighted my time at cooking school. The food though, my sole reason for going, was why I woke up every morning anxious for the day to begin. Dressed in chef whites I would enter the kitchen at 8:30 ready to cook. If I was lucky I was on bread duty, which meant I was okay with the fact that I had to cram an extra recipe in to my already busy day. With cooking, time management and efficiency have always been my downfall. I’m indecisive and like to take my time… as you can imagine that does not fly in a kitchen. I struggled with this but I’m happy to say I have improved. The teachers are to thank for that. They were a hardworking eclectic group and each one provided a unique style of learning. From super supportive to tough love to the extremely informative I knew every day I would be gaining a new perspective on how to smell, taste, and look at my food.  Their passion was always strong and seemed to amplify the energy that flowed through the kitchen. They taught me how to listen for when bread is baked, correctly fold puff pastry, feel for the texture of pasta, taste for seasoning, and present it all in an appropriate manner. They were my heroes and I cannot thank them enough for their support and wisdom.       

                                           

So now my time there is done and I return home a little unsure of what exactly is to come. If I can be honest, I’m scared. I thought I would backpack to the best countries for food and then attend the best cooking school for my interests. After all that I definitely would be able to narrow down what I want to do with my life. Unfortunately now, more than ever, I feel confused from the endless avenues that have exposed themselves during my time abroad….I guess my plan kind of backfired. The truth is I feel slightly lost between two worlds and returning to the States means I have to find my way. All I can hope for is that I wont loose what I have gained these past 6 months- the food, the lessons, the places, the knowledge, and most importantly the people. I may not know what I want to do for the rest of my life, or even next, but being gone I realized there are a few things I do know:

I, Marla Victoria Gilman, love food. I love how it is your senses that experience everything when it comes to food. You touch, smell, taste, feel, and listen. I love how food brings everyone together; nothing else in this world unites people in the same way. I love how food links us to our past, present, and future.  It brings back memories and always creates new ones. I love how food starts in the ground. I love the feel of dirt under my fingernails and knowing that from a small seed I can grow something edible. I even just love the fact that first you grow food, then you make it. You can make it hot, cold, spicy, sophisticated, homey. You can make it foam or ooze, sweet or savory. Best of all I love how food makes me feel. I can’t even explain it but I guess that’s what passion is all about. It’s just there inside you, captivating your mind and glowing your soul. It pushes me to be my best, to question life, and to make a difference. Food reminds me what happiness is all about. It’s like whenever I think about it, whenever the tiniest thought of anything related to food comes to mind, I can’t even contain myself from smiling. 

So as I said, I may not know what job I want to do next…but I do know what makes me happy. To be blunt I don’t think many people can truly say that. So even though its been 6 months, when you see me please don’t ask if I will own a restaurant one day. Don’t ask if I will permanently stay in NY or move to Europe. Don’t ask if I want to bake or cook or teach or farm. Don’t ask because I’m still trying to figure it out. What I have figured out is that food, people, and travel make me happy…and if I become anything in life, if I strive towards one thing - its happiness. 

Paris: the final days

After two months of travel we were nearing the end of our trip. Paris would be our last 10 days and I knew it would be a bittersweet return. Lauren, one of the girls that came to Italy with us, was flying back to Europe to join us in our Parisian days. Instead of a hostel we decided to rent an apartment in a residential area of Montmartre. It may have only consisted of a kitchen/bedroom with a small bathroom but it was perfect for what we wanted. Our location was over an hours walk from the center but I enjoyed being removed from the congested scene of the first district. We were also moments from the beautiful Sacre Coeur, which made us easily accessible by metro but still provided a sense of detachment.

                 

         Each morning was a new adventure of senses. Depending on the day we could have been bouncing from chocolatier to patisserie trying flavors like chocolate with lemon and basil or pastry’s flavored with custard. Other days we enjoyed the mornings sipping coffee and sharing thoughts with one another. Time was as fast or slow as we wanted. We did what we wanted, when we wanted and it allowed each moment to surround us in its entirety. Often we would go to different markets and pick up food for that evenings dinner. It was so nice to be able to cook again and we were taking full advantage of the abundant produce of Paris. Our faces and awkward accents became familiar to our local cheese, wine, and bread stores that we stopped in almost daily. We were even able to return to the amazing falafel stand and ice cream shop in the Jewish Quarter and fell in love with a few new places. Sugarplum Cake Shop and Rose Bakery quickly became favorites as I moaned over carrot cake at Sugarplum and the most delicious quiche of tomatoes, goat cheese, and zucchini at Rose’s. The local pastry shop (which we later learned had a starring role in the movie Julie & Julia) introduced me to a world of flaky pastry dough at its finest. Croissants, pain du chocolate, and raisin brioche recalled how magical butter could be when mixed with a skilled hand. As I sit here writing this post I am literally salivating at the memory of it. Then there was the chocolate éclair at Stohrer, which not only showed me how good an éclair could be (I never really liked éclairs before) but basically turned me off from trying any other. I know nothing will ever beat what I had that day.

   If we weren’t cooking in the evenings we were usually found munching on market food somewhere. One night we took a picnic to the Eiffel Tower and watched the lights come on as the sky went dark. It was a time I will always remember. Surrounded by great friends, wonderful food, and a view that epitomizes Paris I knew life was at its finest. It was starting to really hit me that this journey, this part of my growth, was soon to be over. I would be starting a new phase soon and although I looked forward to it I felt unready. When I left over two months ago I knew I was embarking on an amazing adventure. What I didn’t realize was how much it would shape who I am.

When I think about it, I feel one of the attractions for traveling is that it allows you to leave life behind. You escape the stresses of work, the family disagreements, the drama of friends, etc. You leave it all behind and for a short while and you are allowed to just be. Be yourself, someone else, the person you hope to be, whoever. The ability to just be, to truly live in the moment, was becoming my whole life after these months of travel. I have forgotten what it was like to be stressed, unhappy, to have deadlines and commitments. Although we did have hiccups the majority of time was filled with moments that made me the happiest. It was the places we saw, the people we met, the food we ate, the stories we shared, and the memories we created that brought a true sense of life. The ability to live for me and to discover myself through travel is what made this time so significant. I began to realize that this trip didn’t help me to escape my life; this trip helped me find it.  

When the day came to say goodbye I was the last of the three of us to leave. I sat in the apartment and immediately felt a sense of emptiness. I was not used to being alone. For the past two and a half months I had at least one constant friend. She helped create every moment of my time abroad and experienced the good, bad, beautiful, questionable, and the incredible just as I had. In countries I barely knew she was my sense of direction and source of trust. Kate became more like a sister over these past months and as she left I sat staring out the window catching the tears that fell from my face. The journey was officially over. As I cried I flipped through my camera reliving the moments of Italy, France, and Germany. Of our first meal in Rome and our last with Stephanie, Kristen, and Lauren in Bologna. Of markets in Lyon, wine in Pheddersheim, and sweetbreads in Paris. The pictures slowly transformed from macchiatos, pizza, and pasta to baguettes, sausages, and cheese. The tears literally could not stop. But by the end I wasn’t crying because it was over, I was crying because it happened. 

Germany

After 8 hours, 3 trains, and 1 gelato we arrived in Germany ready to connect with the great taste of wine. A few years ago I had the pleasure of going to Germany with a friend from home and he introduced me to Vio, a family friend of his. Her brother Oliver owns a vineyard and even though he barely knew me he welcomed Kate and I into his home to learn the tricks of the trade. Unknown to us we were arriving smack in the middle of festival season. Instead of fieldwork we were asked to help at the winery’s booths serving wine to hundreds of thirsty people. Each night was a new event and within hours of being there Kate and I were on the sidelines of a Jazz Festival. The music was amazing and even included Ronan Keaton who sings the song from Notting Hill that goes “…you say it best when you say nothing at all”. We eased in to work by cleaning glasses and adjusting to the new atmosphere. Luckily the work crew at Weingut  Hinter de Kirche (The Vineyard Behind the Church) consisted of some of the nicest people I have ever met. They welcome us in to their conversations and by the end of our time in Germany I truly felt like I made a new group of friends.

            After the two day Jazz Festival there was a week long Wine Festival. Our usual day-to-day routine of waking up early, exploring during the day, and in bed by a decent hour was now out the window. At Oliver’s our days were free and at night the work began. Most nights we didn’t get to bed until 2:00am. It took some adjusting but I enjoyed the social aspect of being among people and helping out at the events. Best of all was that everyone was just enjoying life together. They drank, talked, and danced until night became day…then they did it all over again the following evening. Even though I never knew what people where saying I loved watching the interactions. Everyone was truly happy and I couldn’t take my eyes off of it.

There seemed to be a buzz around that Americans were working and a number of people would come up and anxiously start talking to me in English. Their effort to interact was astonishing and it made me adjust to the setting quicker than expected. In the beginning I was nervous to do anything but clean glasses because of the language barrier. By the end, thanks to the incredibly friendly demeanor of literally every single person we met, I felt completely comfortable. I worked hard to pay attention to different key words and by the end I was even able to take orders in German - well as long as they didn’t order more than 6 drinks I could do it! Even if I was confused on what was being said no one judged me for it; which was not the case in every place we visited. This was now my third time in Germany and every time I fall more in love with the place and its people. I seriously l-o-v-e the country and our two weeks their was one of the best parts of the trip. I know I tend to say that about a lot of places but this time, I really do mean it. Oliver and his wife Gabi treated us like family and the same for the few days we spent with Vio and her husband Erik. We even got to hand grind wheat at Vio’s and turn it in to pancakes! Oh, and don’t even get me started about the food! (you all knew the food part was bound to come). Funny enough I think we ate as much cheese in Germany as we did in France. Clearly we were foolish to think cheese would escape us. With Vio we had raclettes, which is like fondue except there is a small box that has 2 tiny pans that you stack meats, veggies, and cheese on. Then you stick it in the box where it heats up the pan and melts the cheese. We also had warm feta which happily takes me by surprise every time I eat it. Spaetzel, a German noodle dish, is a favorite of mine and Vio not only cooked it for us but also taught me how to make it. Layers of homemade noodles, caramelized onions, and endless amounts of cheese and butter hits you so fast that if you don’t pass out from pure satisfaction you sure will from a heart attack. It’s so good though, totally worth the heart attack. Then there was fried Camembert which may be my favorite thing on the planet. Seriously, what these people do with cheese should just be illegal. We also ate currywurst, a sausage that you dip in a curry-based ketchup.  It reminded me of an amplified hotdog and I absolutely loved it. We also tried liver dumplings, cabbage stuffed with meat, sauerkraut, and a number of other German dishes that left us feeling like we just ate a Thanksgiving meal. It’s all so good and so warming, but gosh all you want to do afterwards is sleep.

After the two weeks I genuinely was so upset to leave, I almost cried. We made really good friends and even though I was there for such a short time I felt like I became part of the community. Oliver, Gabi, Vio, and Erik were beyond hospitable and I only hope one day I can provide such comfort back to them. Everyone we met, whether it was for 10 minutes or 10 days, reminded me of the importance to reach out to strangers and show them kindness. Even though our expectations of working on the vineyard did not happen I still loved every second of our time there. We were able to learn a lot about winemaking through Oliver’s vast knowledge and just pouring drinks and talking to the community exposed a wine culture I never knew about. The whole experience was more than I could have asked and I hope everyone who took part in it knows the deep impact they had on me. I swear, if we weren’t going back to Paris after this I think I would have canceled my trip and asked to just stay with them. As we left Oliver and Gabi gave us a beautiful bottle of wine made in 2000 from pressed raisins. It was such a kind gesture after all they provided to us. We would be sure to open it during our time in Paris and give a big loving toast to the Weingut Hinter de Kirche… and all of Deutschland for that matter! 

Normandy

We were back with a car and this time our road trip was to Normandy. Although infamous for D-Day this region was more than just a battle memorable. It was the birthplace of numerous cheeses and home to endless quant villages and coastal towns. After a night in Caen we picked up fruits and a raw Camembert from the market and drove to Cabourg. The buildings made this town one of my favorites as they reminded me more of luxury gingerbread houses than actual homes. We enjoyed our market food in a sunny grass patch and stopped for sweets before heading to Honfleur. Our choice this time was a giant butter caramel that oozed butter from every pore and a dense white chocolate square filled with hazelnut chocolate and a toffee crunch. High on sugar we stopped in Ils de Mer and walk barefoot on the oceans low tide. We searched for the prettiest shell, wrote with sticks in the sand, and enjoyed the childhood essence that often exposes itself at the beach. In the evening we arrived in Honfleur and watched the setting sun on the villages’ port. I ate a pot of muscles fresh from the waters and after a long day I retired early to our hotel. This was the first time all trip that Kate and I separated and it felt unusual to walk the 20 minutes back by myself. In the morning we went to the farmers market and purchased Tomme cheese and the best apple juice I ever had. Usually I’m not even an apple juice fan, but now I find myself craving the clean crisp taste of the juice I had that day. Afterwards we grabbed a choquette, a munchkin size egg pastry with large sugar crystals on top. If I may note, my simple description does not give justice to its exceptional flavor. This airy little pocket of joy could easily be overlooked; it was its simplicity that really made it stand out as one of my favorite pastries of France.

As we made our way from village to village we stopped for lunch in Pont l’eveque and had our first galettes (buckwheat crepes). We shared two: one with Andouille sausage, an over-easy egg, and mixed vegetables. Another with ham and three local cheeses – pont l’eveque, camembert, and lavarot. As if the three cheeses weren’t enough it also had a cream sauce blanketing the top. The three cheeses melded in a way that allowed the rich intensity you may expect to be masked by an almost symbiotic relationship. It’s amazing how good the French are at using rich ingredients. You never just taste the cheese or the butter, you taste the dish. 

The days continued with more stops in a number of little towns. Camembert was one of the most enjoyable and it wasn’t just because we were able to sample three different Camembert’s (a raw milk, a pasteurized, and a thermalized).  They also had a great museum about the history and production of Camembert cheese that I found extremely interesting. Another favorite was the coastal town of Cancale. Of course their was a market but instead of vibrant fruits, breads, and cheeses they sold only oysters. Usually an expensive product in the United States we were able to buy a dozen for 6 euros and enjoy them on a raised wall with a number of other eaters. This was the street food of Concale. It was amazing to see little kids giving them a try and even more was that as everyone finished they would toss the shells over the walls ledge. Hundreds upon hundreds of shells sat there speckled with lemon wedges and crumbled napkins. It was such a casual setting that if I didn’t know any better I could have been in New York City against a high rise munching down a Nathans hotdog.  Rather I was in France acting the same way about oysters. You would never find a scene like that in the States and it was so special to take part in it.

       

          After the long filling days it was nice to return to our B&B in the countryside. The yard (equipped with a number of outdoor activities) overlooked fields of hay bales, cows, and a vast horizon. After a brief game of one-on-one soccer we walked along the road and watched the sun go down. We picked wild blackberries, snapped numerous pictures, and did whatever we could to take in as much of the beauty as possible. The next evening we met the other family staying at the B&B and played bocce ball with the kids before seeing Mt. Saint Michel lit up at night. To soon to be true the 6:00am alarm rang and we were piling our bags in to the car. We would be making a day journey to Germany in order to spend the next two weeks working on a vineyard. The cheeses of France would momentarily be put on hold as we embraced our next food culture. Timing could not have been better; I was having a little bit of cheese overload anyways!

Paris

     With lists of what to eat, where to eat, and even how to eat we arrived in Paris ready to, well, eat. The research was intensive and to be honest we were intimidated, there was almost too much to try. We concluded the only way to be successful was to eat pastries and chocolates for breakfast... it really was more out of necessity than desire. It would be tough but it was a job we were willing to take!
    The first morning started in the Tuileres Garden with a violet macaroon from the famous Pierre Hermes. It was my first bite of Paris and instantly welcomed my taste buds into a world of unique perfection. Its flavor is hard to pinpoint. I won't even attempt to describe it with the limited vocabulary I possess. Shocking as this may be (all of you know how much I like to talk) there are no words, only sighs of joy and angelic choirs of delight. When there sadly was no more we walked the main drag in order to visit the surrounding sites. The louvre, champs élysées, notre dame - check.   From there we stumbled upon the Jewish quarter where we discovered the city's best falafel and a gelato shop that gives Italy a run for its money.  After a long day of walking we returned to our hotel in the 13th district and ate a huge burrito-like crepe stuffed with cured ham, cheese, and all the works. Street food in Paris was quickly becoming one of my favorites!

  
The next morning we met up with my aunt and uncle who strangely enough happened to be in Paris as well. After a day of exploring Montmartre they were kind enough to take us to one of the most memorable dinners of my life. The pleasure of being with aunt Susan and uncle Darrell was enough to make the night great but to top it off was the mouthwatering food (and wine) that accompanied our conversations. Calamari with an over easy egg and parmesan started the meal with a bang as the yolk flowed over each strand of shining squid. Next came a wonderful moment, sweet breads. Perhaps a better definition would be cow glands which to my surprise were so tender and down right delicious that I seriously fell in love with food all over again. The meal ended with a smorgasbord of fruit and the freshest whipped cream I have ever had on a handmade sweet cracker. It was divine, each bite and every detail. I truly felt honored to taste such an expression of food.
     With each day more delicious than the next we opted for a change and did a 4 hour free walking tour that acquainted us with the city's history. For the first time since arriving I was finally starting to feel a real connection. I have been to Paris once before and felt slightly disconnected. I hoped now, older and possibly wiser, I would be able to instantly see what makes this city so special. Don't get me wrong, I was thoroughly enjoying myself and utterly googly-eyed over the amazing selection of food offered at every turn. Although I enjoyed the gorgeous architecture, great markets, and heavenly pastries I knew I was missing something.  Now, three days in, the magic of Paris was quickly unfolding. Now I was caught in a whirlwind of sugarplum fairies, golden rainbows, and chocolate rivers that all lead me to here, to beautiful Paris! The next two days were sensational but sadly our clarity came too close to leaving. Over a wonderful final meal of steak tartar and escargot it was determined that we MUST come back! We would return after Germany and spend our last ten days in a city that echoes so much of what we both believe about life and food. I still dont know why I missed it before. Maybe it was so blatantly in front of my face that I somehow looked past it. Maybe like friendship it took time to truly understand....whatever the reason, it was clear now and I was falling head over heals for the city of love.

Lyon and the French Alps

      After a lovely time in Aquitane we left with plenty of time to reach Lyon by noon. Driving was easy sailing due to Kates quick adjustment to a standard in Montepulciano. With less than an hour to go and open roads we never expected the  hours more of driving to come. With a faulty address, a big city, traffic, and language barriers our four hour journey horribly turned into eight.  It was an exhausting five hours on top of the three we drove just to get outside the city.  Kate was a true superhero, I for sure would have crashed with all the stress and tension flying about. I will spare you the details, the nerves, and the costs of the whole experience and just say that it was the lowest point in our trip.... Luckily that meant things could only get better!
     After a good nights sleep we felt ready to explore Lyon. Obviously first on the agenda was the market. The selection was indescribable. All the sellers allowed us to taste juicy pieces of fruit and slices of cheese as they did their best to describe their selection in broken English.  It was so great and after a number of cheese samplings we dug in to wheels of St. Marcelin and Brilliant Savarin. Let me just say, W-O-W. Talk about luscious milky goodness! With it's creamy flavor and almost whipped consistency Brilliant Savarin is undoubtably the chocolate mousse of cheese. And then there is St.  Marcelin which melts on the tongue like the first lick of ice cream on a hot day. Ah, just pure satisfaction. Along with a number of other scrumptious meals and snacks we explored the beautiful city and fell in love with it's views, parks, and the old quarter where we spent most of our time. Small apartments, unique shops, crepe stands, and a tandoori kebab shop worth bowing to where just some of what made the preserved quarter so special.

    After sadly saying goodbye we hopped the train for Grenoble and then  Aix les Bains, a town that reminded me more of a Floridian retirement community than a French town in the Alps. Although different than expected it quickly became a place to call home as we decided to extend to our two night stay in to four. The lively older community were a blast to watch and lunch in the park,  2:00 coffee,  and bread and pastries from a bustling bakeshop became part of our daily routine. In addition to hiking a beautiful trail that provided one of the best views of my entire life we also  relaxed, planned for Paris, and per usual attended the weekly market. ( I swear if i didn't know any better I would say Kate planned our entire  trip around farmers markets!) Like always it was wonderful and provided new taste and flavors like rotisserie sausage and  Tome de Bauge cheese.

    The morning of our departure we were fortunate enough to find a laundry mat and spent the day getting our clothes spick and span...obviously we needed to make a good impression on our next stop, Paris!

France: Aquitane

       After an unexpected delay in Turin due to a train strike we finally made it to France. Upon arrival we picked up a car and drove four hours to the region of Aquitane. We stayed in the most picturesque b&b that offered a few quaint rooms, allowing us to meet friendly families over morning breakfasts of local specialities and pressed coffee. It was the ideal French countryside getaway.

     Most of our mornings were spent visiting neighboring towns. Whether built out of mountain sides, perched on a lake or nestled in what looked like a medieval storybook, all were beautiful. The weather may not have been on our side, but the one morning we battled the darkened sky and set out on a 6 hour canoe trip we ended victorious with a day of sunshine. Along with two farmers markets the time spent paddling on the river was one of the most memorable times staying in the town of Grolejac. One of the markets was in the evening and I entered intimidated by the small town ambiance, it didn't feel like a place outsiders went to. Kate seemed to jump right in to the vibe and after some time i followed her lead. We purchased a bottle of wine, bread, and goat cheese all made in the town. Best of all was the local butcher selling raw pieces of meat that we cooked on the markets giant communal grill. We got sausages and fired them up as we chatted with the people grilling beside us. Even with the rain and crammed tables the joy of eating among friends, family, and even strangers lightened the air.

      Before the long drive to Brive we grabbed food at the market in Sarlat, a medieval town we explored during our stay. The streets transformed in to a food utopia and eager consumers happily floated  from food stand to food stand. Kate, the worlds #1 cheese fan, was in heaven as I watched her eyes glaze over the numerous varieties. The raw milk Brie has been on her "To Eat" list for months and when found it was well worth celebrating. Unlike any brie I have tasted before, the unpasterized milk provided a strong smell that was mimicked in the deep complexity of its flavor. It's like when you are star gazing and KABOOM a shooting star goes by! It stops you in your tracks and for a brief moment life becomes a little more magical.

     That evening we arrived in Brive and pulled up to our hotel located just off the highway. Checking in through the attached pub was one of many signs that this was not going to be our nicest stay, to say the least. The city center was a ways away and after a long day we were tired and not up to exploring. The seedy feel of the hotel and our lazy mood provided the perfect opportunity for fulfilling a goal of mine....eating in a French McDonalds. Would the worlds leading food country have a better tasting McDonalds? Would the meat be fresher? The French fries crispier? Would it be as cheap? As fast? Could it....taste good?! I had to know the answers and let's face it there was only one way to find out. We walked the highway and arrived at the golden arches ready for action.  To our amazement  we could order through a touch screen and hand the cashier a receipt for pick up. Not one word had to be exchanged.  Fourteen euros later we had ourselves a big Mac,  fries, soda, 6 piece chicken nuggets, and a Mcflurry. The verdict? The burger patty was too small to even taste and I mainly tasted bun and condiments. The fries were salty but nothing special, the nuggets were small and better than the burger but not enjoyable, and the Mcflurry....I can't lie, that was pretty damn good. The meal was entertaining and a unique experience for both of us. When we returned back to our hotel we cracked open some cheap wine and laughed at the days events. Just that morning we were sipping coffee in the countryside and eating farm fresh Brie. Now we were digesting McDonalds and choking down crappy wine in an even crappier hotel. It indeed was different, but it was our life and I was loving every second of it.

Bologna

      I couldn't believe the last part of Italy was already here. In the blink of an eye everything I planned for months was coming to an end. Next would be France, Kate's part of the trip, but until then we hoped to make the most of our last week here. This also meant it was the last few days with Steph, Lauren, and Kristen. We all became so close that the thought of carrying on without them felt a bit strange; a bit unnatural. We did our best to ignore the nearing end and arrived in the gastronomic capital of Italy  with open hearts and empty bellies. Kate per usual was prepared with a list of gelaterias and dishes to try. We would at the least not be going hungry in the city referred to as "the fat".
    Although not a common visit for most tourists the five of us instantly felt connected to this diamond in the rough. Home to one of Europe's oldest universities  and laced in detailed architecture this historic city screamed creativity, beauty, and a genuine lifestyle. Of 100,000 university students 80,000 live in Bologna, which gives an idea to the young vibe that pulsated the arched covered streets. There was something so amazing about this place....it's beautiful in an old way and yet gives off a slightly edgy city feel. The buildings seem to contain no uniform structure yet the detail and trimming  of each provides for a unique balance. Its old yet new. More than anything it is alive.
     We spent as much time as possible strolling the different parts of the city and enjoyed grazing in and out of cheese shops, clothing store, cafe's,  and gelaterias. We licked down flavors like pumpkin and cinnamon, Sicilian cannoli, and the infamous Giuseppe- a swirl of chocolate and vanilla mousse transformed in to a light and fluffy gelato.  We found it only appropriate to take breaks from our long walks around the city to enjoy small pastries like mini chocolate cheesecake, croissants, and creme filled doughnuts. We slurped macchiatos  in the cutest coffee shops ( turns out i have become a fan of espresso) napped in parks, visited nearby towns, and walked until we were too tired to do anything besides sit and eat again.

     When our last meal together approached  we sat down at a pizza place we distantly  drooled over the previous day. Unlike typical Italian pizza, these were huge with a thicker dough to cushion the hefty toppings. Between the five of us we split three pizzas: 1. pesto 2. proscuitto with arugula and shaved parmesan 3. margarita with oregano and tomatoes. The pizza was mind blowingly delicious and eating it became somewhat of an explosion, an  uncontrollable American eating frenzy. It was a great last meal together.
     After the girls departed Kate and I were fortunate enough to find hands down the best gelato shop and restaurant in existence. Bold statements some may say but unless I find better I am sticking to it! We returned for gelato three times in two days and easily could have returned each day for the rest of our lives. With flavors like cream of pine nut and caramel walnuts, cream of ricotta with dried fig, marscerpone with coffee and cocoa beans, and ameretto egg cream and rice candy how could we possibly be unhappy?! The flavors were all so different than anything I have had before but the quality seemed perfected to a science. It was love!  The bliss continued our last night as we ate tortellini with pumpkin and ravioli stuffed with rabbit and a side of smoked goat cheese. The best wine, a Pignoletto, accomponied the meal and we had no choice but to joyfully raise our glass and give a big loving toast to our darling Bologna.

Cinque Terre

(I will keep this one short! I just wanted to put that out there before you all dread another ridiculously long post)

     We had three days to enjoy the beautiful oceanic towns of Cinque Terre, the "five lands".  A four hour trail linked the five villages together and offered beautiful views as well as an intense workout.
     Home base was a 9 bed mix in a hostel located 10 minutes from Cinque Terre. We felt comfortable knowing we would be five of the nine but soon learned we'd be sharing the space with the worlds worst snorer and a terrible night cougher. Between the two of them  the nights were long, but the enjoyable days made the sleepless nights well worth it.  Day one consisted of us wandering around our base town and enjoying a slow pace to life. After so much seeing and doing we looked forward to being semi-lazy and relaxing on the many beaches that surrounded the area. Our goals during our time there were to eat as much pesto as possible (this is the area pesto was created and most famous), hike the five towns, and relax. Three tasks i proudly say we completed in perfect composure.

    
     Besides loving the scenic hike and adorable towns I also had a number of great food experiences. Their pesto was down right awesome and everything it touched pretty much turned to gold. With pecorino silently hiding between the bright basil and Parmesan it really made every dish royalty. It accompanied the best meal of my trip which consisted of chestnut flour tagliatelle with clams, tomatoes, and parsley. Just the thought of that dish makes me salivate with excitement! Even better was that my appetizer before it acted as the perfect opening performance. Fresh muscles stuffed with parmesan, breadcrumbs, marjoram, and rosemary. YUuMmM!  Another surprisingly delicious meal was a lard pizza that Kate and I shared our last night. Salted pig fat laid hand in hand with arugula, cut cherry tomatoes, and shaved parmesan. With a quick spritz of lemon it innocently sat on pizza dough waiting for someone to give it a try. Intimated, yes. Hesitant, yes. Excited, hell yes. The other girls were just shocked, maybe even a tad disgusted by the thought of it.  It reminded me of the sad story you hear about the older kid at the orphanage that no one wants to adopt because they are not cute anymore. Then one kind soul puts their heart on the table and brings the kid home, making the two of their lives complete. Well my dear friends and family, I bravely gave this lard a try and i wholeheartedly tell you that my kind soul is now complete. Against all expectations it was the lightest and most refreshing pizza I've ever eaten. Of all the pizza I have had on the trip, and trust me I have eaten a lot, this one pleasantly surprised me the most and was one of my favorite dishes thus far. That evening I learned a very  valuable lesson...never judge a pizza by its toppings.

Tuscany

It's official, I died and went to Tuscany. This place is honesty what I imagine my heaven would look like. The landscape alone has the power to melt hearts and make any saddened soul shimmer with hope. Even more was that literally every second was better than the one before. Our five unbelievable days in Tuscany consisted of Montepulciano, Sienna, and Lucca.  We stopped in places like San Gimignano and Pienza along the way and as we went north we ventured to hike the great mountains of Garfanganca. Montepulciano was by far my favorite  so i decided to focus this post strictly on our time there.

   After a five hour drive from Sorrento to Tuscany we finally  arrived in Montepulciano. Kate, a now hero in all of our hearts, bravely conquered the unpredictable winding roads in our 5-seater Picasso. Even though this was her first time driving a manual in years her intense focus got us there safe and sound. I felt lucky to be in the backseat focusing solely on the scenery that passed by.  On the road my eye constantly remained fixed on the thatched pattern of the terrain. Shades of green and brown blanketed the land and seemed to form a puzzle among the horizon. It was undeniably breathtaking.
   For the first two nights Kate and I stayed with her family friends while the other girls where ten minutes away in our destination spot, Montepulciano. We dropped off their bags and did some brief exploring before grabbing dinner. Simply put, the town was as quaint as quaint can get. We ate at a terraced restaurant and watched the setting sun as we awed over a sensational meal. I started with a unique dish of black rice in a pecorino and truffle sauce followed by a local dish of stuffed Guinea-fowl. Still unsure of exactly what type of animal it was I can confidently say it was delicious. After dinner Kate and I departed to her family friends home where we were welcome with a glass of wine and the warmest hospitality. To be welcomed and treated so kindly was more than either of us could have asked for. We all chatted on their porch which overlooked the countryside before retiring to bed.

   Being in a famous wine town we woke up early and by 10:00am were seated for our first wine tasting. We drank, learned about regional grapes, the aging process, as well as different forms of wine certifications. From there we drove around the beautiful tuscan roads until we found the other vineyard suggested to us. We shared a tasting with an older couple and enjoyed getting to know one another over five delicious San Giovese (the local grape) wines. On the car ride back we stopped at a little shop that was filled with local culinary specialties. Our soon to be new best friend, Simone, provided samples of meats, cheeses, oils, and wine. One oil was laced with truffle and I went off about my deep undying love for truffles. The day was already amazing but at this moment  it quickly became even better....
   Turned out Simone was a truffle hunter and invited to show us how it was done the next morning. We then informed him (which i forgot to mention before) that it was Kristen's birthday and wanted somewhere special to eat. He suggested the restaurant above the shop, where his brother was chef and all locally sourced food including his truffles were used. After sitting he started us off with complimentary proseco and for the main meal Steph and I split egg yolk and spinach ravioli with truffle oil and fresh truffles. When it was brought out Simone took a big black truffle and shaved it over my dish until thin layers coated my entire plate. I was in heaven. No joke I have dreamt of the day when I would eat freshly shaved truffles. When it actually happened I smiled so large it almost hurt. By far one of the best moments in my life. The meal overall was incredible and as an extra  birthday bonus he gave us a sparkling wine and a chocolate molten dessert at the end. After a long meal filled of laughs and some of the best food, we departed and anxiously looked forward to truffle hunting with him the next day.
   Slowly we made our way back to the center of Montepulciano and passed the time walking up and down the small cobbled streets. Eventually we saw a church where a man dressed like Mozart was playing the most beautiful music on his flute.  We sat and listened almost in a dreamlike state. The day was sensational, beautiful, delicious, hilarious, and almost too good to be true. Among the smooth floating melody all I could do was cry. Out of joy, friendship, agriculture, food, music, i could go on forever. It was happiness stripped down to its core and marked a moment in time when everything made sense and felt right.

   The last song signaled our time to leave. We picked up flowers and all of us went to the house that Kate and i were staying at. The family generously invited the five of us over for a home cooked Italian meal with them and their two kids. The dinner was sensational. Seafood salad, couscous with zucchini and shrimp, and pasta with lobster in a light tomato sauce. It must have taken hours to cook and we could taste the love in every bite.
   The next morning we met Simone and drove to a plot of woods a few minutes away. He had two dogs with him and they excitingly sniffed around as he cheered them on. Within moments black truffles were appearing everywhere. It was fascinating to watch the dogs sniff, dig, and move on to the next spot. Simone then brought us back to his family home where we soon realized he was more than just a typical nice Italian guy. His family had a beautiful home with a mini museum of artifacts in the basement. The view overlooked a pond and all of Tuscany while their garden and vineyard remained close by.  He picked us fresh strawberries, gave us just baked biscotti, and offered to show us around his family shops. Turned out his family owns a very well known winery as well as a number of storefronts that sell artesian food.  We tasted everything there was to taste, saw their wine and cheese cellars, and then he toured us around another one of their small museums located underground. All along he answered our questions and was the perfect tour guide and gentleman.
   Before sadly saying goodbye we listened to a man play cello outside of one of Simone's shops.  The whole day was kind of like a fairytale and we all just kept laughing over how incredibly amazing our time in Montepulciano was. It was surreal and as we left we all agreed that this was by far the best place we have been. I don't know if it was the landscape, the people, the wine, the food, or just the five of us getting closer.... but I was definitely high off Tuscany.

Campania

Part two of our Italy trip was in the Campania region, an area famous for cities like Naples and historical sites such as Pompeii. We stayed in the town of Sorrento which was centrally located to all we hoped to see. Our five person bungalow at Santafortuna Campsite overlooked lemon and lime trees while the crystal blue ocean sparkled in the distance. A twenty minute walk took us to the center of town where numerous tourists and natives spouted English from every direction. Clearly we weren't the firsts outsiders to come exploring. Even more than Rome, this place seemed to be quite the tourist attraction...and it didn't take long to figure out why. 
Fig, olive, orange, and lime trees lined every street and the views of the water never seized to amaze us. After walking the town we grabbed a great dinner of green gnocchi with shrimp and tagliatelle with mixed seafood. The mix consisted of squid, clams, and muscles. it was some of the best I ever had. Buttery and smooth each bite slipped down my throat with full satisfaction. 
   After a wonderful meal we walked down to the water and caught a final glimpse of the most miraculous sunset. Never in my life have I seen the sun so large and fluorescent orange. We sat on the dock and took in the beauty until we were  interrupted by nearby shrieks of joy. Among the surreal view a boyfriend proposed to his now fiancé. To witness such a happy moment  made our night so even more special. On our way back we  saw a gelato shop with a big line out the door, of course we gave it a try. I started with nutella. It was so deliciously  creamy that it was almost impossible to resist...so we gave in to its powers and returned every night. Gelato was becoming quite the routine for us. 
   Outside of Sorrento one of our first attractions was the destroyed city of Pompeii.  Besides learning the history we were able to crawl on the ruins and take pictures, which we took full advantage of. Lauren had two people hoist her up on to a high ruin and after a few goofy poses she jumped off ready to see more. To our full enjoyment she belly flopped and landed face down on the dirt floor of Pompeii.  A man next to us screamed "take photo!" in broken english and he scrambled to get a shot of the crazy girl face first in the ground. If it is possible to imagine, it was hilarious. 
   The next few days we explored the beautiful island of Capri and the quaint town of Positano . We took a ferry to Capri and upon first glance I was in awe. Approaching it looked like a giant black rock, the largest I've ever seen. As we moved closer the docking port appeared in the rocks concave center. Houses painted the backdrop along with fruit trees and the most beautiful selection of flowers. We hiked about an hour up to the main square but took a break to enjoy some fruit on a stone wall that overlooked the whole island. It was breathtaking. The ride to Positano was equally as amazing as the bus zigzagged up the Amalfi coasts winding roads. Although slightly nauseating the scenery made the uneasy roads well worth the trip. The town was built out of the side of a mountain and had endless views of the coastline.  We walked around and eventually made our way to the beach. It's sand was blackened from past explosions of Mt. Vesuvius but the water remained perfectly blue and transparent.  As we relaxed I ate ripened figs and enjoyed the crashing waves as they cooled my feet . 
   Our five days exploring the region was even better than our time in Rome. The views were sensational and the food was incredible. Besides the seafood, the figs and olive oil stood out as some of the best... and don't even get me started on the buffalo mozzarella! It made every pizza  explode with flavor and a tasting platter transformed the buffalo in to an animal from the gods. Three types of buffalo mozzarella and ricotta drizzled with a light raspberry-honey sauce accompanied a fresh bed of arugula. As Kate and I shared this 3,000 calorie lunched (plus a pizza) the melting cheese and all it's glory forever made an imprint in our hearts. Sometimes, all it takes is a little local fat to make the world a better place :-)

Rome

After a sleepless flight I arrived in Rome anxious to meet Kate. As i waited, strapped in to my oversized blue backpack, I heard unfamiliar words pitter around my semi-conscious head. I was definitely overtired, slightly confused, and a part of me feared that Kate and I would never meet up. Our plan to meet outside the metro stop seemed a lot clearer before realizing their were five possible exits. To my luck, her familiar face appeared right on time and almost instantly I felt a little more at home. 

 Kate is a close friend from school and my original travel partner in crime. We would be spending the next three months together but had the company of a few tag alongs during our three weeks in Italy.  This included my cousin stephanie and kate's friends Lauren and Kristen. They would be arriving in the next few days and I will admit, a part of me feared how a group of five almost strangers would get along. 

After hugs kate and i went to our b&b, which turned out to a spare bedroom in an Italian family's home.  Three generations scurried around the house.  One warmly introduced himself while the grandma prepared a home cooked lunch for her grandchildren. We dropped our backpacks and immediately hit the streets. Spanish steps, Trevi fountain, Colosseum.  Gelato break...flavor: coffee. 

Four hours later we found ourselves  in Trastevere, a quieter section located outside the busy city center. Famous for food, this was a point of interest since our first moments in Rome. The area was slightly tucked off a main road and was spotted with tarnished shades of yellow, orange, and red. The buildings seemed to mimic the setting sun as we gazed down each street. Flowers hung from balconies and restaurants cornered each turn, reminding us that our first Roman meal was in order. We settled on a small pizzeria and shared two pizzas: one margarita and one with pancetta and olives. It was delicious and the carafe of house white wine was so good that even now, eight days later, we are still kicking ourselves for not finding out its name. It was one of the best wines I ever had, perfectly balanced and clean.  

It wasn't until 11:00pm that we finally made it back to our b&b. By then I was so tired that it took every inch of energy just to take a shower. After 28 hours without sleep I was exhausted, sweaty, and slightly delirious.

In the days to come the other girls would arrive. To my surprise we all instantly connected and i was amazed with how comfortable we became around each other. Friendships grew quickly and it seemed as though this trip of five (only two of whom i previously knew) was destined to happen. Through our time together we visited a number of sites, trekked over an hour for the city's best pizza (it was!), ate gelato for lunch four days in a row, and sat by the Tiber river drinking wine and learning about one another. 

As our time in Rome came to end I was sad to leave and amazed with how fast the first five days passed by. As we awaited for our train we grabbed food from an incredible market located a few blocks from the station. Surrounded by fresh produce and the aroma of salty fish i gazed around and took in as much as possible. From giant blocks of cheese to cow tongue and morning baked bread I floated between isles until time forced us to leave. The days in Rome marked the beginning of new friendships and this amazing journey. The company was great, the food always good, and the wine consistently flavorful. Six months  in the making I was finally here and all I could do was smile.